In fact, tour operators insist that Sihanoukville has everything anyone could wish for, from resort accommodation with pools and perfectly preened golf courses to thatched beach huts where local hawkers bring everything from the freshest of tropical fruits to just caught hot steamed crabs and shrimp and barbequed squid straight to lounging sun worshippers.

"This fishing port offers white sand beaches and the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Lunch at a seaside cafe, go snorkeling, or relax under a thatched grass umbrella," according to cruise operator Princess Cruises, which incorporated Sihanoukville as a stopover in 2005.

Those who prefer privacy can opt for the relative quiet of a private beach such as Sokha, but for a taste of real Khmer life, the more adventurous can rent a lounge chair and laze by one of the less developed beaches such as O'Cheuteal, which is pure white sand lined with she-oaks and palms.

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